Interested In Metal-Detecting?

 Who Else Wants To Start Finding Buried Treasure Faster and Easier Than
They Ever Thought Possible???

 

 

The best Metal Detecting Tips and Tricks

 

 

Dear Friend

 

Do you think about treasure buried out there... the coins...  the jewelry...  and who knows what else? 

Do you dream about finding it... but don't know where to start? If so, then you've found the right site!

Here’s the story… 

Metal-Detecting Is The Doorway To Modern Day Treasure Hunting   

When you think of treasure hunting, you think of Indiana Jones, or the movie "National Treasure" because of the excitement involved.

There's lot of adventure and excitement when finding something that's been buried for hundreds of years. 

We are naturally drawn to the mystery and excitement of treasure hunting. 

And maybe you're not Indiana Jones or Nicholas Cage, but you still want to find what's out there... 

Because there is stuff out there.

And it's just waiting to be uncovered.  

You might not be locating the Ark of the Covenant.

But you can still find amazing things buried beneath surface.

Things just waiting to be discovered. 

Things like coins, jewelry, forgotten trinkets worth a lot of money, and so much more...

And the crazy thing is, they could be just sitting anywhere!

Even right under your feet... 

Keys To Finding Treasure Buried In The Most Unusual Places 


    You don't have to go the Amazon to find treasures from the past.  

There's a lot of stuff buried in the sand on beaches, and old hiking trails, and battlefields from long ago.

Many people find amazing things in the most ordinary of places... 

Usually because they're the only ones looking. 

Metal-detecting allows everyday people to become modern day treasure hunters.

 They don't go on amazing adventures to Africa.  

They walk the beach and find things people never would have expected.  

There's a lot of treasure beneath our feet and we don't even know about it.   

Don't you want to find some of it? 

But many people don't ever go metal-detecting because they don't know much about it...

Which means they could be missing out on finding some amazing things. 

How To Find Buried Treasure And Trinkets With These Simple Yet Amazing Tips

If you don't really know much about metal-detecting, you could be missing out on exciting finds wherever you go.

And it's so easy to start metal-detecting...

But many people just don't know the fundamentals.

That's why I've written this book, Introduction to Metal-Detecting. I want everyone to know what I've learned about metal-detecting without all the trouble (and expense!) of trying to figure it out themselves. 

Metal-Detecting can turn your average afternoon walk into an amazing treasure find.

Do you really want to live in the dark about how to find all the lost treasure around you?

How many opportunities have you missed out on because you didn't know a few simple basics about metal-detecting?

My book can help you come out of the dark and start metal-detecting today!

You'll discover…

• Metal-Detecting Basics Knowledge

• Basic operation of a metal detector

• Search coil techniques

• Metal detecting depth

• And a lot more

If You Want To Start Metal-Detecting, You Want To Read THIS...

Why be held back any longer?  

Turn those summer outings into great summer treasure hunts.

It's not hard to go metal-detecting, you just have to know what you're doing...

So why not start today?

 

How To Find Buried Treasure And Trinkets With These Simple Yet Amazing Tips

If you don't really know much about metal-detecting, you could be missing out on exciting finds wherever you go.

 

And it's so easy to start metal-detecting...

 

But many people just don't know the fundamentals.

 

That's why I've written this book, Introduction to Metal-Detecting. I want everyone to know what I've learned about metal-detecting without all the trouble (and expense!) of trying to figure it out themselves.

 

Metal-Detecting can turn your average afternoon walk into an amazing treasure find.

 

Do you really want to live in the dark about how to find all the lost treasure around you?

 

How many opportunities have you missed out on because you didn't know a few simple basics about metal-detecting?

 

This book can help you come out of the dark and start metal-detecting today!

 

You'll discover…

Metal-Detecting Basics Knowledge

Here you will find everything about metal detecting and we will cover for you the complete basic knowledge that you can use for searching with a metal detector, choosing the right metal detector and effectively and properly exercising the hobby.
We start with the components of a metal detector

A metal detector almost always consists of the same parts:

1. A shaft to which the other parts are attached. At the top of the shaft there is an armrest so that you are supported in the swinging movement. Under the armrest there are small feet on which you can place the detector.

2. A control box ''electronics box'' The control box is usually located just below the handle. If the function box has a digital display (LCD), this position is very convenient so that you can look at it quickly while searching. In some cases, often on models without a digital screen, the box can also sit under the top or even be attached to the belt.

3. A search coil, this search coil is always attached at the bottom of the shaft with a bolt, nut and usually also rubbers.

Basic operation of a metal detector


Electromagnetic Field

The metal detector creates an electromagnetic field of approximately 5 feet deep in the ground. The search disc consists of a transmitter and a receiver (both annular). The transmitter creates the electromagnetic field and the receiver measures whether there is any movement in the field. A movement in the field is reported to you by the metal detector by means of a sound (beep) and/or visually on the screen.

There are three things that can cause a movement in the electromagnetic field.
1. Metals (we prefer that)
2. Minerals, also called ground fault
3. EMI (electromagnetic interference), also known as air interference

 

Identification 'what's in the ground'

If the metal detector detects a change in the electromagnetic field, it wants to report this to the user by providing a sound and/or visual information. This is actually all about the phenomenon of 'conductivity'. 

This conductivity is determined by two characteristics of the object in the ground:
1. The type of metal
2. The metal size

The conductivity value of the metals is perhaps the most important knowledge you have to acquire as a metal hunter!
There is a difference between low conductivity, medium conductivity and high conductivity metals.

We also call this order 'the metal spectrum':
Lower conductive metals: Iron Curtain (including 'tinplate')

Medium conductivity metals: NICKEL-ZINC-LEAD-BRONZE-ALUMINUM-GOLD

Highly conductive metals: SILVER COOPER

In addition to the metal type, the metal size also plays a role in the conductivity value.For example, a large piece of iron (for example, a big part of an implement) will still have a high conductivity value because it is so large.

A metal detector will give the following main identifications:

Discrimination (which objects the detector should ignore)

The accuracy in which a metal detector can discriminate can vary, for example, from setting left to right squares, discriminating accurately per number, setting intervals (for example, only turning off the 3rd block or numbers 34-37, we call this 'notch' discrimination).
 
Practically, it is very common to discriminate from left to right where you seek the balance between leaving small iron lying down but not too much / discriminate against it which would cause you to skip beautiful objects. A small coin on its side at 12inch or a small complex object such as an earring can have so little conductivity that it quickly becomes discriminated.

Various modes

Although discrimination in the direction of low conductivity to high conductivity is usually used, many detectors also offer a number of standard search modes in which a specific discrimination pattern has already been chosen. With extended detectors in the high price segment, these modes usually contain (many) more settings than the discrimination pattern.

In general, hunters get to know a metal detector best if they choose the discrimination (and other settings) themselves.

 

Search coil techniques


There are several techniques for search disks. The two most important ones are concentric and Double-D (also called Widescan)

Concentric search disks can be recognized by the fact that the transmitter and receiver (two rings) are identical. This can be either round or elliptical in shape.

With DD search discs, the transmitter and receiver run through each other, creating a shape in which you can see the letter 'D' twice (with the back of the letter against each other).

Most detectors in the price range up to $350,- have concentric search coils. These have a nice basic depth about 10-12 inch for small objects and 4 to 4.3 feet for large objects. 

More expensive metal detectors almost always include DD search coils. These go for small objects up to 14-16 inches and for large objects up to 5 to 5.3 feet. In addition, DD coils look wider into the ground than concentric discs.

Motion and Non-Motion Technique

There are two basic techniques for a metal detector. Nowadays, almost all metal detectors are of the 'Motion' type. This means that you need to make a movement over a metal object in order to detect it. If you hang quietly above the object, the detector can 'not see' the object.

Decades ago, many detectors were still of the non-motion type. Then a detector also gives a message if you hang quietly above the object. This technique does, however, consume more energy.

On most of today's motion technology metal detectors there is a 'pinpoint button'. Pressing it will change the technique from motion to non-motion. This button is often used when an object is detected, and you want to see as accurately as possible where the object is in the ground.

There is a misunderstanding that non-motion detectors would not have to be 'swung'. This is not true, however, because the swinging is of course necessary in order to be able to find enough surface area.

 

Frequencies

Almost all metal detectors for hobby use are of the very low frequency (VLF) type in terms of frequency.

The frequencies in this area range practically from 3 kHz to 20 kHz. It is important to know that low frequencies (3-5 kHz) go a little deeper for large/compact objects and that higher frequencies (12-19 kHz) are more accurate (go a little deeper) for small and complex shaped objects (a small coin on its side, earring, etc.)

Treasure hunters with a focus on large Militaria (e.g. helmets) will therefore more often opt for a low-frequency metal detector and those with a focus on small archaeological objects will more often opt for a high-frequency one.

Functions of a metal detector:

Volume

While not all metal detectors have a volume setting by far, this function is very useful for controlling the volume of the detection signals. Sometimes it can also be used to control the volume of beeps associated with adjusting the on-screen settings.

If there is no volume control on a metal detector, you can choose between headphones with a volume control, if possible.


Sensitivity

Each metal detector is equipped with a 'Sensitivity mode'. This function is required to avoid EMI (Electromagnetic Interference), i.e. air interference.

This interference consists of 'other electromagnetic fields', e.g. of high-voltage power lines, railway lines, electric fence around a field, etc.

If a detector becomes disturbed by this interference, decrease the sensitivity function until it becomes calm again. So you always set the SENS as high as the detector stays calm.

 

Ground balance

As discussed earlier, besides interference from metals and EMI, interference from minerals in the soil can also occur. This is possible because of iron ore, extreme fertilizers but also because of the salt you find on the coast.

An adjustable ground balance gives the possibility to ignore the minerals as much as possible.

There are a number of forms of adjustable ground balance:

Fully automatic: the metal detector periodically checks the soil for minerals itself.

Semiautomatic/pumps: press the ground balance button and pump the metal detector up and down to the ground (one measurement per search location).

Manual: You can manually set the ground balance value (for example low value for salt, 25 to 27 on a scale of 1 to 100).
Beach/salt beach (the detector immediately selects the appropriate low ground balance for salt

 

Iron Audio

The most common metal to discriminate against is, of course, iron (low conductivity metal). Although it is common practice not to make any noise for the metal types in question in the event of discrimination, some metal detectors (AT Pro, XP GMP/GMII, XP Deus) offer the option of choosing an 'Iron-Audio' tone.

You will then get a special, usually low, tone for iron. This is sometimes still adjustable in volume. Practical use is that you turn on the iron-audio a little on relatively clean substrates (for example fields with little iron pollution), but that you turn off the iron-audio on heavily iron-contaminated substrates.

​Search technique (how to best use the search technique)

Swinging

Teaching a good swinging technique with metal detecting can yield up to 50% extra finds! The basis of the swinging technique is that you hold the search coil parallel to the ground and move it as close as possible to the ground a maximum of 0.8 to 1.3 inches above the ground. For example, if a metal detector is able to detect a coin up to 12 inches deep and you swing 6 inches above the ground, you will lose half of its detection depth.

You can maintain the swinging movement for the longest time if you can make a relaxed movement, especially with the elbow as a turning point and control so that you can swing around yourself as far to the left as you can to the right at least 1 meter distance per swing.

Make sure that your shoulder muscles are relaxed and your upper arm hangs relaxed along your body (elbow next to body, not far from it).

Walk pattern

If you want to systematically search on a piece of ground, we advise you first to walk vertical lines (up and down) and later to look at the same piece of land again crosswise (at right angles to the first lines).


Guidelines for the hobby

Here you will find the most important 2 guidelines for the hobby,

Opening and closing graves

Although it is almost superfluous to mention, it is of course important with metal detecting to close the dug holes neatly. For sand and clay this is easy, but also for grassland it is handy to stick out neatly with a scoop or cut with an edge digger, so that the plague can neatly return. If the holes are not closed, we as metal detector treasure hunters are nowhere more welcome.

Where and where not to search

Where and where not to search it also goes without saying that before entering someone's property, you must obtain permission to search. In the case of farmland, this will also depend on the land that is sown or planted. In addition, different rules apply for each state, so what it is allowed or not.

 

Metal detecting depth

The depth of your metal detector should be set as high as possible. This means that this is so high that you don't experience excessive annoyance from irritating noises. This actually applies to all the areas you are looking on. On wet areas of the beach you will have to lower the sensitivity of most metal detectors in order not to get confused with the false signals.

How deep a metal detector maximum detects depends mainly on its size, but also the location and material of the object play a role. Also your swing speed slower = deeper and the working frequency lower = deeper influence.

In general, most detectors can find a copper coin at a depth of 8 to 12 inch. And large objects can still be detected with a good detector at a depth of more than 20 inch.

Deeper searching with your metal detector

The lower the frequency of your metal detector, the deeper the detector items can find. If your metal detector has a tone identification listens to hear how iron sounds, open the sensitivity and turn off the discrimination.

Search in the all-metal mode you can then go a little deeper than in the discrimination mode where the button is set to 0. What you can also do is think of a larger and/or a better search coil. This has pros and cons not every larger coil goes deeper than the smaller standard coil. Keep in mind that a larger coil usually detects the smallest objects less well.

You can also detect to greater depth by swinging your searching coil more slowly.

What also works well is hunting after a rainstorm or rather after a period of rain when the soil is wet. In wet ground, your detector always goes a lot deeper through the better conductivity.

With some detectors, you can also rotate a knob inside the cabinet to increase sensitivity, usually with a screwdriver. The Whites Surfmaster is an example of this.

Discrimination feature

In metal detection, discrimination simply means turning away certain objects / targets with a button on your metal detector.

It is not as simple as the above, because in theory you discriminate away metals with a low conductivity, in practice you simply discriminate weak signals. The result is that you still get a signal on a piece of iron even though you turn away the iron with low conductivity. A signal that gives an object back to the detector and thus causes a beep depends not only on the type of material but also on the size of the object, its location (slanted or flat in the ground), the depth, the degree of corrosion of the object and the type of soil you are looking for.

It is therefore possible that a coin at a certain level of discrimination may be squeaked at one time and not the next. For example in beach sand, a coin corrodes very quickly and can therefore be worse or not beep at all.

Even when a coin is standing upright in the ground, it can also happen that it does not beep. A coin standing upright in the ground often makes a double signal, but always a weaker signal than if it had been flat.

My advice is to set the discrimination on the material you want to find. If you want to find bronze items, set up the device on this roughly and you will probably also find copper or even silver coins with this position this is because the bronze coins are often very large.

Put items in the ground yourself

One way to be more certain is to try it out yourself. So put the objects you want to find in the ground yourself and test them in this way. The behaviour of your metal detector will then become clear more quickly. The discrimination setting and possibly notch or accept/reject setting will succeed better and you can go hunting with more confidence.

How can you find more in a shorter time?

How do you find a lot of treasure in the time you have at your disposal? Another difficult and unclear point. I can only say of this, find the right balance between swinging speed, walking speed, digging depth and discrimination. And also takes account of the terrain and the discoveries expected.

For example, on a dry beach you don't have to go for small beeps because most gold jewels are lost in the water. So you go there for coins, cell phones and that kind of stuff (the big beeps).

Then walk there quickly, swing fast, and take a large dish (at least 9 inch in diameter) It's a matter of making meters and discriminating so far until you only hear the bigger items from around a coin size. Also use a scoop with a long stem so that you are not always bent to dig. A big shovel looks tough but really not handy.

The detectors which has a quick recovery after a beep with the 10.5 inch coil is perfect for dry beach.Your swinging speed can therefore increase. And if there is enough, for example after it has been busy on the beach for a few days, it's better to go for the next beep than to dig half an hour on a very deep beep.

If you find out after a while that there is a lot of time between digging than you better go looking for a better place or lower your discrimination for more targets.

Another example:
If you are hunting in shallow swimming water. You can leave your scoop aside and dig by hand, this works super fast and results in many more finds.

More beach Tips

Go hunting in the evening and search at the beach when most swimmers are just away around 19:00. Then look at the prints of towels in the sand, as it is you most likely to find something.

Also look at places where most of the cans, chips and other rubbish that people leave behind are. Beach visitors usually don't want to walk far before they plunge into the sand so don't try to find too far from the steps that lead to the beach.

Another way to find items even faster on the beach is by using a pinpointer this is a device that allows you to locate an object in the dug hole. This works fine but if you can easily dig holes and if it doesn't matter how big the holes will be, you're probably faster with an extra scoop of sand than with the use of a pinpointer.

What can help to increase your recovery speed on the beach is to use a lightweight shovel on wet sand and a plastic scoop for dry sand.

Pinpointing feature

Pinpointing with a metal detector is something else than a pinpointer and you do it with a button on the detector itself. You use this to determine where the target is in the ground compared to your search coil.

In my opinion, this is an unnecessary option on a detector. With a little experience you can save a lot of your precious time in total by not pinpointing but by swinging back and forth to determine the position. Also when the target is in the side of the hole. You can then keep the coil at an angle and half in the hole to determine the location.

But it can be useful for very large objects if you want to measure how big something really is.

Hunting on large fields

There are many people who spend days searching in the same field. That is possible, but I do not think that is the best way. Other people seek out every inch from a field until they have had everything, this does not generally work either (only if you have a lot of time)

What does work?
If you start in a new field, first go over it quickly. In this way you don't find much, but you will find out the most quickly where something can be found (the big spots). Observe the shards, rubble, stones, height differences in the field, and the amount of iron nails in the ground.

After you have done this in just an hour you can start by carefully combing the field at these places where there is an increased risk of finding items.
Do you now find nice things in those places then look carefully and don't run away from those good places.

What I have also noticed is that in old fields it is worth looking for black spots with charred remains in the ground.

If you find a nice coin or item then just look right around it because often there are more of the same kind together.

If you did it right, at the end of the day you could put the best of the field in your bag. If you've been everywhere, stop and go to a new field or come back at most 1 or 2 times later if it was really good, But don't stay hoping that you can still find something, there are more fields waiting.

You can use the same field after the next harvest, after ploughing it again. The items may lie on the surface one year and lie deep again the following year, or vice versa.

Search for treasure spots using a Map

If you have just started metal detection, it is best to focus on the last century. A good way to find the better fields is to consult a map with heights. Something like the Topographical map of the united states.

It is best to go and look around the old towns and then visit the highest fields. These higher-altitude bumps are generally drier and therefore tend to house the better quality coins.

Look on the map also at the areas with fields that look very bad in terms of shape. Strangely shaped fields are usually older than the perfectly rectangular fields on the map.

You can also look at the water supply. In the past, the flowing water did not come out of the tap, but people had to walk to a creek or river and during this trip items were lost. Don't look too close to the river, because people didn't build houses there because of the risk of flooding. So look at the high fields a few hundred meters from flowing water.

What you can also look at are the street names. Old street names generally indicate that they were there at an early stage and are therefore indications of good treasure sites.


I hope that you've had something about these metal detecting tips and tricks.